PolyShrink Techniques Gallery/ Shrinking- Heat Tool

Shrinking With a Heat Tool

<<<Techniques Galleries

Being directly involved in the shrinking process is fun, and baking with a heat tool let's you shrink your latest creation right at your work table. Heat tool shrinking is also the method of choice for intaglio, doming, rolled beads, and other hot techniques.

Some things you should know:

Heat Tools- Models vary widely in temperature, from a little over 300 degrees, to more than 600 degrees F. The heat gun that we have found easiest for most people to use is the Heatit tool from Ranger. It has a lower air flow, broader nozzle, and lower temperature that make even heating easier. You can use other kinds of heat tools, but be extra careful to keep hotter models constantly moving and at a distance from your work.

Baking Surface- We recommend non-corrugated cardboard (also called chipboard) for baking. Chipboard is like the cardboard on the back of a legal pad and can be purchased at art supply stores.

Unlike a metal or teflon surface, cardboard pulls less heat away from the PolyShrink as it's being heated. As a piece of PolyShrink warms up, the first part to start shrinking is the outer edge, leading to curling toward the center. Some curling during shrinking is normal, but lessening the heat "pull" of the baking surface helps prevent problems.

Hand Manipulation- Another thing that can help is flipping the piece over part way through shrinking to expose the center of the piece to heat.

Size and Shape- Extra large, long, skinny or complicated shapes are more difficult to keep evenly heated. Be very aware of keeping the heat tool moving to avoid zeroing in on one area and folding the piece up. Some hand manipulation may also be needed. You may wish to consider baking more difficult pieces in an oven.

Step-by-Step:

If you're using a Heatit tool, get in close (2 -3 inches) and start heating. Keep the nozzle moving in a slow, sweeping, circular motion.

If you're using another kind of heat tool, you will probably need to keep the nozzle further back.

The plastic will begin to shrink. It is normal for it to move and buckle.

Remember to keep the gun moving....

.....Continue heating.

If things are happening faster than you're comfortable with, move the heat tool farther away.

The plastic will contract, but not very evenly at this stage.

If the plastic begins to curl toward the center.....

....move the heat gun to the opposite side from the direction of the curl....

...and the plastic will "follow" the heat and go the other direction.

As soon as this is done, return to overall heating. You want to keep the whole piece hot throughout the process.

You may want to quickly flip the piece over and continue heating to get rid of any little dimples or cool spots.

You'll see the surface take on a uniform look. Some curling may occur. Don't be concerned.

Keep up the even, overall heating.

You're in the home stretch!

Usually you'll see the plastic "relax". It may lay flat, but then again it may not....keep heating...

Flip the piece back over for the final heating. When you're finished, turn off the heat tool.

If the piece isn't perfectly flat, cool it in a flattened position using cardboard, or an acrylic or wood block. This should be done immediately, while the plastic is still warm. No need to press hard- a small amount of pressure is all that's needed.

Your finished piece!

Troubleshooting-

Despite your best efforts to avoid PolyShrink curling to the point of sticking to itself, it can happen. As soon as you notice that it's stuck, stop heating and allow the piece to cool a for 5-10 seconds. Pull gently and you’ll hear a tiny “snap” as the joint comes apart. You can now reheat the piece and finish shrinking. Using this method, it is almost always possible to save any piece that has stuck together.

Copyright © Lucky Squirrel Oven shrinking >>>

	Step-by-Step: If you're using a Heatit tool, get in close (2 -3 inches) and start heating. Keep the nozzle moving in a slow, sweeping, circular motion. If you're using another kind of heat tool, you will probably need to keep the nozzle further back.
	The plastic will begin to shrink. It is normal for it to move and buckle. Remember to keep the gun moving....
	.....Continue heating. If things are happening faster than you're comfortable with, move the heat tool farther away.
	The plastic will contract, but not very evenly at this stage.
	If the plastic begins to curl toward the center.....
	....move the heat gun to the opposite side from the direction of the curl....
	...and the plastic will "follow" the heat and go the other direction. As soon as this is done, return to overall heating. You want to keep the whole piece hot throughout the process.
	You may want to quickly flip the piece over and continue heating to get rid of any little dimples or cool spots.
	You'll see the surface take on a uniform look. Some curling may occur. Don't be concerned. Keep up the even, overall heating. You're in the home stretch!
	Usually you'll see the plastic "relax". It may lay flat, but then again it may not....keep heating...
	Flip the piece back over for the final heating. When you're finished, turn off the heat tool. If the piece isn't perfectly flat, cool it in a flattened position using cardboard, or an acrylic or wood block. This should be done immediately, while the plastic is still warm. No need to press hard- a small amount of pressure is all that's needed.
	Your finished piece!